Firearm Maintenance Thoughts

Revolvers need carbon cleared from chambers among other surfaces, of course.

Semi-automatic pistols have many lubrication points after cleaning, including specifically applying grease on rails, slide, connector and barrel hood. Cleaning and lubing springs is an often-overlooked good idea.

It should be obvious that a semi-auto handgun is more complex and intricate than the revolver design.

Rimfire and centerfire have similar needs, but the entry technique for a gun cleaning rod will be different due to the nature of its difference in design. In either case, with some impact from ammunition choices, powder residue is the culprit.

Thoroughly cleaning fouling out of the bore is critical, followed by bore conditioning with a superior lubricating oil to minimize buildup before your next shooting event.

A bolt action rifle needs grease right there around that piece of metal for smooth action.

The AR design demands cleaning and lubrication around the bolt assembly which is a complex part assembly that is a magnet for carbon fouling.

All handguns and rifles that have magazines require attention to the mag release contact surface to clear the surfaces of powder accumulation.

Shotguns, like rifles, require barrel cleaning and bore treatment because accumulation is very prevalent. The hinge needs grease, as do the choke threads.

In all cases, a superior light grease can optimize if not enhance trigger performance and even lighten trigger pull. Greases are not equal, at all. Tetra Gun Obex Prime is so special it's like having a trigger job in a tube. You will immediately feel the results.

Air rifles do need care as well though the needs are less demanding. A clean and lubricated bore like on any firearm will enhance FPS to some degree. Once again, oil is not oil. Some products are much more impactful than others. In any case, don't over lubricate. Polish lube into bore metal before firing. You don't want gun oil accumulated in the bore because it will be obstructive and slow you down if not worse.

Some people either don't understand or oppose the use of gun grease. Any experienced gun owner or gun care professional knows that it is necessary on certain gun parts. By its nature, grease is heavier than oil, it stays in place and better addresses metal-to-metal sliding friction on high-wear parts as described above whereas oil should exclusively own inside the bore and metal gun surfaces overall as a protectant.

When we say oil, that is gun lubricant or CLP oil. In either case, they are almost always a low viscosity fluid and are intended to be worked into metal. You do not want to finish with a wet gun. It is a dust magnet, and you can make a mess as excess residue drips down into a holster or gun case.

Tetra Gun has been the choice of gunsmiths and gun owners for over 40 years

For gun storage, avoid leaving gun solvent residue on gunmetal as it can open the door to rust while it attacks the gun lube on the surface. So, mixing different gun cleaner and gun lube products together on the same surface can be catastrophic. Firearm cleaning is critical, but take note of these critical tips:

• You must apply firearm lube immediately after removing solvent residue.

  
  

• Using CLP -- cleaner, lubricant, protectant all in one -- is the exception but you still don't want residue from previously some other bore solvent.

• Gun solvent is often still on metal after use even after wiping so you can often remove it by wiping gun metal down with 91%+ isopropyl alcohol (more effective than 73% version due to water dilution). The proof is if the alcohol-soaked cotton comes out with color like amber, that's the evidence of solvent residue you just removed. Of course, that evaporates quickly to adequately prepare the metal surface for gun lubrication.

  • Denatured mineral spirits are a viable alternative to the IPA.

  • Alcohol is so effective that the Obex Prime grease in the non-aerosol pressurized spray can format uses isopropyl alcohol as the carrier fluid.

    
    

• There are cleaner choices out there that are all effective in different ways, some stronger or specific than others vs. convenience. For example, here are some Tetra Gun brand options:

  • Action Blaster cleaner degreaser aerosol ideal for spraying quickly down barrel.

  • Copper Solvent for copper fouling, plastic wadding and other hard buildup.

  • Carbon Cleaner for eating up simple carbon fouling, especially black powder.

  • Cleaner Degreaser water-based cleaner for low-residue light duty use.

  • Bio Cleaner is a bio-enzymatic material that is sprayed safely to eat fouling.

    
    

• Tetra Gun fluoropolymer synthetic lubricant technology found in different products in their offerings actually provides some cleaner function even though it's a lube. You know that when you skip the cleaner and go directly to the lube and you literally see carbon black on your cotton. The material actually gets underneath the metal substrate to help lift fouling up and off your guns.

There is so much more to consider, especially when it comes to technical hardware details so always refer to your firearm manufacturer's user's manual for step-by-step guidance, beginning with disassembly instructions. However, most gun makers tend to be vague or careful as not to recommend any specific cleaning or lubricating product so don't read to deeply into their generalized comments into "oil" or "solvent" though you should be very cautious in applying any strong gun solvent on special gun finishes which are often vulnerable to premature wear.

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